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Post by kilteda4 on Aug 17, 2013 6:31:01 GMT -7
We are wrapping up the layout of our new house. Unfortunately no HT in this house so main living room will have to serve dual purpose and fulfill WAF. I have attached a snipping of the main floor layout. We have no use for a hall closet really so like my current house, I plan to put all my HT equip in there and eventually replace the solid door with a glass door. The house sits on a full crawl space, so my thought process is that I can definitely put the IB in the crawl. My question to you is, if I mount the IB in the crawl right under the closet, could I build it so that I can route the port up from the IB box, through the floor, and exit through the side wall facing the living room. Kind of like a periscope if you will.... Wife does not want hole in main living room floor but is ok with a small cloth vent of some kind on this side wall....I was thinking size of AC vent? From a design perspective, how large would such a port need to be? I am new to this and not even thought of the actual IB design yet so any recommendations are welcome as well as thoughts on the overall concept. Thanks. IB Design.docx (82.26 KB) |
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Post by ThomasW on Aug 17, 2013 7:18:36 GMT -7
My question to you is, if I mount the IB in the crawl right under the closet, could I build it so that I can route the port up from the IB box, through the floor, and exit through the side wall facing the living room. Kind of like a periscope if you will.... Not the best idea. You really don't want your equipment directly exposed to the pounding imposed by the pressure-wave coming off the drivers. And you certainly don't want a glass door exposed to the same. Give the wife a choice, live with a box sub in the room, or an opening cut in the floor for the IB. |
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Post by climatemaster on Aug 17, 2013 22:24:18 GMT -7
An A/C supply vent would certainly be too small. But a return grille would suffice. Looking at your plans it appears by the X that there will be an
A/C return between the foyer closet and the bathroom. It looks more than sufficient for both a return duct and an IB outlet. You would have to work with your A/C contractor to make it work. Or build it in the bottom left side of the foyer closet with the opening in the side wall. You could install a matching return grille over it. So you would look at the wall and have what looked to be two return grilles. You would have to box off that part of the closet. Depending on how good you are at carpentry build an upside down scoop to direct the sound waves from under the floor to move smoothly out the side wall.
I have my (4) 15"s in the ceiling about two feet from the projection screen with a 16x20 return grille covering it. While it doesn't rattle the grille nor the screen it does rattle the ceiling mounted projector.
How you build your box will be determined by floor joist framing and supports. I would have done a 20x20 but I didn't feel like reframing.
Be sure you talk to your builder once you determine where you want it. The last thing you want is to end up with a pier(stack of ciderblocks) right where you want to install your IB.
You may want to mock up a box as soon as the floor is in so ducting and plumbing don't run in your way either. You have a huge advantage by being ahead of the game.
Good luck.
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Post by ThomasW on Aug 18, 2013 7:25:06 GMT -7
One option would be to seal off the lower 1/3rd of the closet. That way the upper equipment section wouldn't be exposed to the pressure coming off the woofers.
The IB would at the rear of the room?
If so you'll want to use larger main speakers that can play low, so a lower crossover point can be used for the sub. A 40Hz-60Hz crossover point would be the target. Doing this allows less localization of the IB
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Post by FOH on Aug 18, 2013 8:14:56 GMT -7
I agree with Thomas, not the best idea.
Utilizing quality metal floor grates is stealthy, non-intrusive, and a very nice a simple way to proceed with an IB. The examples I've seen going with such an approach, can easily be out in the open or be disguised in some fashion with plants/décor etc.
As Thomas suggested, box subs in the room, or nice floor grates/registers that are physically and visually a non-issue IMO.
Good luck
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Post by kilteda4 on Dec 24, 2013 8:47:25 GMT -7
Thanks everyone. Since it is attic above this room, I am now leaning towards that as the preferred option. Some thoughts.... My room is less than ideal as a HT since it has no back wall, rather it opens on to the kitchen. Keeping in mind that this will be our main living room and be used daily by the whole family how would you size the IB? Start with 2 x 15's at first and then expand if need be? I attached an image of the floor plan. Also, I have been reading a lot about popping sounds when turning on the Behringer Amp's, how can I child proof this set up since it will be used daily? Will the order in which the Harmony remote turns it all on and off do the trick? Attachments:
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Post by ThomasW on Dec 25, 2013 8:06:08 GMT -7
I'd start with a pair of 18"s
Childproof by putting the equipment behind locked glass doors
Usually it's EQ cycling on/off that causes loud popping. The cure is to leave it turned on.
A Harmony only operates devices that have remotes, Behringer amps don't operate via remote control
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Post by FOH on Dec 30, 2013 14:38:48 GMT -7
I'd start with a pair of 18"s Childproof by putting the equipment behind locked glass doors Usually it's EQ cycling on/off that causes loud popping. The cure is to leave it turned on. A Harmony only operates devices that have remotes, Behringer amps don't operate via remote control A pair of 18's, with provisions to move to four if need be. Considering the IB will be "seeing" in addition to the entire area of the family room, you've got to add the foyer, the kitchen and breakfast area ... that's some significant cubic volume. So it'll all depend on your habits, ie., volume, material, etc. Just remember if you make provisions for the second pair, it's really dramatically easier to expand if need be. |
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Post by pitviper33 on Jan 3, 2014 11:34:12 GMT -7
I'd start with a pair of 18"s Childproof by putting the equipment behind locked glass doors Usually it's EQ cycling on/off that causes loud popping. The cure is to leave it turned on. A Harmony only operates devices that have remotes, Behringer amps don't operate via remote control ^ What he said. My pop came from the equalizer, not the amplifier. If you want to create a way to sequence, you'd want to turn on the EQ before the amp and then turn off the amp before the EQ. But I decided this was more trouble that it's worth. Instead I do exactly as Thomas recommends and leave the EQ on all the time. It's been sitting there on for a year or so now and has never had a problem. I've never measured its current draw, but it's cool to the touch. You can easily set up the amplifier to turn on by remote with a "smart strip" or a 12V trigger to a relay. |
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