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Post by scphil on Oct 24, 2007 11:40:11 GMT -7
I am looking for a relatively inexpensive amp to push (4) AE 15"IB's. Do you have any suggestions? I prefer to go the fanless route if possible since the amp will be in a rack near the HT seats.
What is the lowest RMS wattage I should consider? AE's website mentions that 150watts RMS per speaker would result in good db's. I believe 100 watts per driver would still have good results, but do I dare to go any less?
I have been keeping an eye on Ebay deals for something used. Something from the home audio market of amps instead of a PA style amp w/ a loud fan. One area of concern is that most of the amps specify a frequency range of 20Hz to 20Khz. Will they still go below 20Hz even though they aren't rated for it? Will there be a noticible loss of SQ. Some of the high end units will say they go down to 15Hz
Anything wrong with going with a standard integrated amp providing the watts per channel are there?
BTW, subs are in hand and the box is half built. I really want to see how it all performs. Just short on $'s for the amp. I already went overbudget buying the (4) AE subs per your recomendation vs the (2) PE 15's, but I am sure it will be worth it.
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Post by ThomasW on Oct 24, 2007 14:08:09 GMT -7
Sorry I know of no cheap fan-less amps that have enough power for your needs.
Amps are amps so an integrated with adequate power would work fine.
Amps are rated by the FTC 20-20,000, this doesn't mean they don't play lower
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Post by chrisbee on Oct 25, 2007 2:07:02 GMT -7
The cheapest option may still be to go with a pro amp with a fan.
Then just do the fan swap for something quieter. (24 Volts)
A Behringer EP1500 or preferably an EP2500 would be good options for 4 x IB15s.
The fan swap is very simple and even simpler if you don't have to worry about voiding guarantees by hiding your handiwork.
The danger with "weaker" amps is that they may clip without warning.
The temptation is always to keep screwing up the volume to better enjoy your IB on favourite film scenes and rock music.
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Post by scphil on Oct 25, 2007 5:33:40 GMT -7
Thanks for the replies. I guess I will keep looking. Maybe I'll have to go w/ a fan model and do a fan swap. Just looking for the most cost effective option. Thx
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Post by scphil on Oct 25, 2007 10:48:54 GMT -7
How about a Behringer A500 running mono. Suppossedly 500 watts. Or is that too low on wattage. It doesn't have a fan.
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Post by ThomasW on Oct 25, 2007 12:15:04 GMT -7
The A500 is a nice low cost amp, but unless you buy a pair there's probably not enough power since they don't really produce a full 500 watts. Obviously you could get one and see if it does the job.
The cheapest amp will be refurbed Behringers or the various Nady XA series that are periodically offered for as little as $150. All these of course are fan cooled.
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Post by scphil on Oct 30, 2007 8:35:52 GMT -7
I think I am going to go w/ the Nady XA-700. Suppossedly 750W RMS in mono 8 Ohm. I should be good with that (187 watts per sub)and it is cheap and not used or a refurb.
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ryans
Full Member
Posts: 132
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Post by ryans on Oct 31, 2007 20:19:06 GMT -7
I've always thought that for only a few dollars more the XA-900 is a much better deal. The power output is not all that different - probably not even noticeable. But the 900 is rated down to 2ohms stereo and 4ohms bridged. This provides significantly more flexibility.
But if you know that you'll never need to drive less than 4 ohms stereo or 8 ohms bridged, then the 700 makes sense.
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Post by scphil on Nov 13, 2007 7:45:04 GMT -7
The 700 actually has more power than the 900 in bridged mode, but you loose some flexability with out being able to go to a lower Ohm load. In my case w/ (4) 8Ohm 15's the only wiring options I have is a 8 ohm total load bridged or (2) 4 Ohm loads in (2) channels so I think the 700 is actually a better fit.
I just received the 700 amp last night. I was reading the book and it says the amp should be turned on 1st before any other equipment and off 1st before shutting down everything else. Is this a rule that should strictly be followed? Or is this more applicable to PA type setups instead of home audio? I thought I read that some people leave their amps on all the time
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Post by ThomasW on Nov 13, 2007 8:32:24 GMT -7
The usual rule regarding power amps is (last thing on, first thing off) if they aren't left on all the time. Following this rule avoids turn-on/turn-off thumps in the system, since the amps are usually direct coupled.
I have no idea why Nady makes their statement, I suppose the best thing to do is email them for their rational as to why that statement is in the manual.
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Post by htnut on Nov 13, 2007 17:12:37 GMT -7
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Post by scphil on Nov 19, 2007 7:00:05 GMT -7
OK, so I hooked up the XA-700 this weekend and I am getting relatively low output levels. I think I need a line level shifter or something. I am using it in conjunction to a Marantz 7.1 receiver using the 7.1 pre-outs for the sub. It sounds fairly good if I max the sub output on my receiver and max the gain on the XA-700, but still nowhere where I think it should be (the wife still said the bass was loud next door . Not to mention I shouldn't have to max both levels to get loud bass. The XA-700 has signal LED's that indicate the presence of a signal > than some amount, 150mA maybe. Any way these LED's only light breifly on bass hits when the volume is cranked up. Is that normal, or should they be illumunated all the time? So does it sound like I need a line level shifter? Which one is the best for the $'s. I looked on the FAQ page, and it says that the Art clean box isn't the best for IB's and most of the other ones shown came up as being >$100 on a quick internet search.
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Post by ThomasW on Nov 19, 2007 10:27:32 GMT -7
There's nothing 'wrong' with having the outputs turned all the way up provided you get the amount of bass you want/need.
Do you have EQ? If not occasionally the EQ unit itself will raise the overall drive level.
The CleanBox is the only cheap line level shifter. As is posted in it's stock configuration it rolls off the lower frequencies. If you're comfortable changing out the 2 caps then do it.
If people want me to comment about specific gear they need to post links to the owner manuals. I'm sorry but don't have time to do searches for information about every piece of equipment.
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Post by scphil on Nov 19, 2007 13:05:02 GMT -7
Thanks for the response. I do not have an EQ yet and my money would probably be better spent there than the line leveler especially if it may produce a little boost. Although I do have my eye on a used leveler on ebay that I may be able to get for cheap. Thanks again.
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ryans
Full Member
Posts: 132
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Post by ryans on Nov 19, 2007 22:57:43 GMT -7
You can get some additional gain relative to your speakers by moving down the individual speaker levels (except for the subwoofer) and then turning up the main volume to compensate.
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Post by scphil on Nov 20, 2007 7:48:28 GMT -7
That's a thought, I hadn't thought about that. I will probably eventually get a level shifter and/or EQ. I am sure the overall sound will change for the better once the room gets completed. Right now it is just raw sheet rock and OSB flooring. Once I get some carpet, furniture and some additonal sound dampening it will be much improved.
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Post by ericeash on Nov 27, 2007 15:36:28 GMT -7
i've got a QSC RMX 1450 i'll sell to you cheap. it's got a fan, although it has been upgraded to a quieter one. it's not nearly as loud as my EP-2500
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