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Post by nolook on Mar 21, 2006 17:25:22 GMT -7
I have built 3 panels.. 2' x 6' x 3.5"
The fiberglass is 3.5" thick, and according to some of the DIY instructions I would layer this to get the required six inches..
I also read, that the paper backed glass is fine, as the paper has little or no reflective properties.. So, the double layer of paper will not be a problem ?
And if so, and as the first layer is placed in the frame with the paper against the pegboard, could I not turn the second layer over, so that the paper side was facing out, into the room ?
Then cover with the poly and burlap..
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brady
Full Member
Posts: 238
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Post by brady on Mar 21, 2006 18:16:24 GMT -7
nolook, they sell thicker unfaced insulation. If you already have the faced stuff you can easily remove the paper. The paper is only reflective at higher frequencies. What range are you trying to absorb?
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Post by nolook on Mar 21, 2006 18:44:49 GMT -7
Hey Brady.. Very high.. My room has vinly flooring, drywall on three sides, vaulted ceiling and not a drap or curtain to be found !! I got more high end bouncing around in there than you can shake a stick at.. These panels are just the first, with one each going behind the mains, and the 3rd behind the center.. I will be using that pressed O/C 700 series stuff for the mirror locations on the sides (and ceiling if needed). Figured I could pull the paper off, but didn't want to mess with that if I didn't have to  |
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Post by dewardh on Mar 21, 2006 20:02:31 GMT -7
nolook:
You'll get better absorbtion, down even into the "room mode" frequencies, if you use rigid panel insulation ("rock" or "mineral" wool is just as effective as fiberglass, and much cheaper). The 2'x4' "panels" are much easier to work with than fiberglass bats, too, and it takes only a minimum of frame to contain them. 4lb/cu.ft. is good, the 8lb stuff is even better for bass trapping. You may encounter a minimum order of several bundles, but you're going to need it anyway <g>. MUCH better than the typical Home Depot fiberglass insulation.
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Post by ThomasW on Mar 21, 2006 20:15:51 GMT -7
The fiberglass batt traps where created long before compressed fiberglass panels were available, that's why I have them. And why there are so many references to them.
But traps made with multiple layers of compressed glass panels are much better (absorb lower frequencies) and a lot less hassle to work with.
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Post by nolook on Mar 22, 2006 18:09:36 GMT -7
From the posts, I understood that the compressed stuff was easier to work with, but purhaps not as effective ? I hate waste.. So, if I lay the pressed glass panel(s) within the existing frame, should I pull the pegboard off ? Will it effect the performance one way or the other ? PS: Maybe we could update those posts, with a "Good Better Best" approach ? I'm just too easily confused  |
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Post by dewardh on Mar 22, 2006 21:00:42 GMT -7
Half there <g>. Easier to work with, *and* much better performance. The peg board neither helps nor hinders . . . to keep the wood frame rigid I'd leave it (since it's there). Below is the "best" design I've run across to date . . . I built a 3x6 that way that is manageable light. Covered it with a fairly heavy but very cheap upholstery fabric from a local discount fabric store. I started looking for a "tapestry" sort of pattern, but ended with a (very cheap) plain gray. The wife hangs samples of her (very colorful) crochet work on it for display. VERY high "domestic compatibility" factor <g>. I have another in a wood frame that hangs over a great-view-of-the-neighbor window, with the frame stained to match the covered window frame. People barely notice it (the neighbor gets to see the rock wool). The drywall corner I used (from Home Depot) is rounded (unlike the example) so there are no hard corners or stretched fabric. I used 2 inch bats to make 4 inch thick panels, and lapped the "joints". Lot of pop rivets (but I'd always wanted one of the air drive rivet guns <g> (us old guys can't take to gooda care of the old aching joints and tendons). Anyway, I like pop rivets . . . www.radford.edu/~shelm/acoustics/bass-traps.htmlPlenty of further references therein . . . |
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Post by nolook on Mar 24, 2006 12:18:15 GMT -7
Well Dewardh, let me see if I got this right.. Compressed glass is good, rock wool is better.. Both work on high freqs and low, with rock wool again doing a better job on the lower end.. Forget bats.. Done.. Now, compressed glass has a backing on 1 side.. And in many of the posts backing is used to reflect some of the sound.. So, if you stack it you end up with multi layers of backing.. How can that not have an effect ? Unless the backing is paper, but I believe its a thin foil ? Finally, it's hard enough finding the compressed glass, where can I get rock wool these days ? I'm in So Cal, as in the OC What's the latest on availability of this stuff ? Older posts said it had be discontinued.. Home Depot and Lowes are more clueless than me on this.. hahaha |
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Post by dewardh on Mar 24, 2006 12:49:59 GMT -7
"Rigid" panels are available in fiberglass and rock wool, with comparable absorption for comparable density. Rock wool is less expensive, and available in higher density (8lb/cu. ft.), which makes it more absorptive at lower frequencies. The panels I buy have no backing. I got my panels "off the dock" at Specialty Products and Insulation in Benicia . . . they do not seem to have a SoCal outlet, but would probably ship. You might find a local (to you) source mentioned in this thread: homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?s=024babcf7b636bf1d8a5d7c3337ed273&t=147777&page=1&pp=25 |
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Post by nolook on Apr 4, 2006 15:30:40 GMT -7
I've finished the three 'older' style panels.. I went with what I had started, and with what was readably available, a roll of 3 1/2 x 15 R13 glass (double layered), pegboard, wood frame, hardware cloth, polyester, burlap.. These will be going directly behind the mains and center..
I will hunt down some rock wool for any additional needs, such as the 'mirror' locations on the sides, corner work, etc..
One question, is there anything to be gained with this older style panel mounted away from the wall ? (As I understand it, that would be mostly for bass management, correct ?)
Oh, my mains and center are flying.. They hang from the ceiling on chains, so the panels will be mounted high on the wall to match.. Not to easy to test 'on wall' 'off wall' locations..
Anywho, yes/no on older style panels spaced from wall ?
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Post by nolook on Apr 12, 2006 16:16:22 GMT -7
Thanks again Dewardh for the info and links on rockwool.. I found a place close enough to drive to.. They only carry 4" thick 2x4 panels, but it's a start.. I need 2 inch for the sidewall work I want to do.. To anyone that has not addressed their 'room' with regard to acoustic treatment, DO SO ! Believe me, just about any work in this area will give you positive results.. These simple panels work magic.. The newer materials are reported to be even easier to work with, and from what I see, that should be the case.. I'm quite impressed by the results so far, even with my humble beginnings.. To tell ya the truth, the hardest part for me was compiling all the threads on the subject, and putting them into order by date, materials and application.. Actual construction time was nothing ! Well, not counting 'do overs'  |
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