jcd
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Posts: 28
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Post by jcd on Mar 31, 2006 12:39:22 GMT -7
I apologize if this is in the FAQ or a previous post, but I don't remember seeing it.. Is there a general consensus on whether it's better to go with more drivers with less power handling or fewer drivers with higher power handling? The "dilemma" I have is that I have a certain amount of $$ I can spend for my IB. Given a budget of ~$400-$450 for the drivers, I can either get 2 Dayton Titanic MK III's www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-420 or 4 Dayton DVC's www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-190. The 4 DVC's are actually a little bit out of my budget, but I might be able to swing it if I save my pennies between now and when I can get around to the build process. Both drivers are 15" with a lowish Qts (I'm looking for a clean/tight bass), but the Titanic starts to pull away when I start looking at the rest of the specs. .................................Titanic.........DVC Power Handling..............800w .........350w xmax.........................20.5mm.......15.1mm Fs..............................19.93Hz.......20.4Hz SPL.............................91.7db........90db If I were never going to increase the number of drivers, which way would be better? If it's a push, I'd definitely go with the Titanics -- 2 are cheaper than the 4 DVC's and would be easier to install of course. If it's close, I'd probably stick with the Titanics as well. It's when it gets in the the "more than marginally better" that I start going, hmmm... Other information that may be pertinent: - Amp is going to be an Nady XA-1100
- The room is pretty small right now: Height: 6' 4.5", Width: 8' 5" Length: 14' 5" I may move and take the drivers with me
- The drivers will be wall mounted -- no manifold will be needed in this install
Can't think of anything else that may be pertinent. JCD |
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Post by ThomasW on Mar 31, 2006 12:46:01 GMT -7
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jcd
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Posts: 28
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Post by jcd on Mar 31, 2006 14:51:31 GMT -7
So the power handling doesn't come in to play?
Using the chart, and my calculations of the DVC (SD=807.6, xmax=15.1) I have the following:
Titanic Vd = 2.8224 (or $70.39/liter)
DVC Vd = 2.4389 (or $48.61/liter)
By that measurement, 4 DVC's should KILL 2 Titanics (5.64 for 2xTitanics to 9.76 for 4xDVC).
Even two DVC's would be relatively close to the output of two titanics.
Now, here is where I leave my knowledge base and jump into the unknown: But what about the power handling? Intuitively, it seems that the Titanic should be able to squeeze out a couple of Db's with the extra power that it can handle. I know it's not double, but it has to be something.
On the assumption that it really is JUST about displacement, then are you getting a better THD or something else with the Titanic? The DVC does cost about 35% less than the Titanic..
JCD
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Post by ThomasW on Mar 31, 2006 17:36:17 GMT -7
Not like a standard box sub. This topic is covered extensively in the FAQ.
There maybe distortion differences, but no one I know has done measurements of these particular drivers
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jcd
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Post by jcd on Apr 1, 2006 13:09:33 GMT -7
Not like a standard box sub. This topic is covered extensively in the FAQ. There maybe distortion differences, but no one I know has done measurements of these particular drivers I took another look at the FAQ -- I think I figured out what it was driving at in regards to the power handling thing.. I won't say I've got completely nailed down, but I'm better.  Your second comment got me to thinking about sound quality vs just moving air. This IB is going to be used in a listening room -- a decent TV won't even be added to the system for.. for.. I don't know how long. Anyway, my point is that since this is going to be used in a mostly music setting, my priority is more about SQ than just getting the most thud/dollar. Most of the drivers I see recommended seem to be tilted more toward the home theater setting than to music -- I could be totally wrong about that, but that's what it appears to be. Anyway, back to my question, if I were willing to spend more to get better SQ, is there a driver that generally gets recommended at price points of say, $150, $200 and $250? If I were rich and famous, I'd continue that out.. but, sadly, I'm not.  JCD |
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Post by ThomasW on Apr 1, 2006 14:12:20 GMT -7
I don't know how one differentiates a HT vs music driver based on raw driver specs. Actually I fundamentally fail to comprehend anyone buying a HT sub. My philosophy is a good sub is a good sub and will work for music or HT.... There certainly are 'better' drivers out there but the price of admission starts going up rather quickly.... If you want to see a 'better' driver than the 15" Titanic, look at the RL-p 15" from soundsplinter.com. I know of nothing in that price range that's any better...Now the Qts is a bit low for IB use, but RDO solves that problem if one doesn't want an overdamped system.. And using one VC for RDO isn't a problem since we don't need the added power handing for IB operation.. |
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jcd
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Post by jcd on Apr 1, 2006 17:45:21 GMT -7
I based my statement on the FAQ -- higher Qts was more geared towards that "HT sound". And since I'd say HT sub sound quality is less critical than music, I assumed that a relatively low Le and Qms provided better "sound". I totally agree on that one -- I know a too many folk who prefer running a sub hot to get that extra "oomph".  Sigh, just like everything else in audio..  Thanks for the suggestion -- I'll take a good look at that one now. Of course, I'll have to do a little research regarding the RDO.  Thanks again for your efforts.. much appreciated. JCD |
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jeffp
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Post by jeffp on Apr 3, 2006 6:00:12 GMT -7
Not to hijack/steal the thread but since I'm in a similar situation as jcd what would Thomas recommend with a $1000 budget for subs?
Would it be 4x RLP-15's or something else? Given you need to accomodate approx. 4000-4600 cu. ft. of space.
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Post by ThomasW on Apr 3, 2006 7:13:33 GMT -7
Recommendations depends on the time line for your project. There's stuff coming out in approx 90 days that will be interesting. I'm not permitted to discuss specifics right now.
If you're ready to move immediately, and want really good drivers with a budget of $1000 for just drivers, then yes the RL-p15 are a great way to go.
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jcd
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Post by jcd on Apr 4, 2006 9:49:43 GMT -7
Recommendations depends on the time line for your project. There's stuff coming out in approx 90 days that will be interesting. I'm not permitted to discuss specifics right now. Argh! Secrets!  My dad works at some super secret warmonger lab -- most of the time, he can't say what he's working on -- drives me crazy. Can you say "it's worth waiting for"? JCD JCD |
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Post by coldie on Apr 4, 2006 12:26:22 GMT -7
Speaking generally, the "new hottness" that is coming out 90 days from now is ALWAYS worth waiting for =)
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Post by osuhog on Apr 4, 2006 13:57:25 GMT -7
Speaking generally, the "new hottness" that is coming out 90 days from now is ALWAYS worth waiting for =) That said, if you ALWAYS wait for the "new hotness" that is coming out in 90 days, you may end up never buying anything!  |
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Post by ThomasW on Apr 4, 2006 14:47:21 GMT -7
For those wanting 4 very nice, modest excursion drivers for $400, yes they're worth 90+ days waiting for. For those willing to wait at least 6 months, there are some BIG surprises in the wings. BUT for those wanting something immediately, nothing has changed... |
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jcd
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Posts: 28
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Post by jcd on Apr 4, 2006 16:11:37 GMT -7
That said, if you ALWAYS wait for the "new hotness" that is coming out in 90 days, you may end up never buying anything! Yeah, I'm with you on that one. At some point, you just have to pull the trigger. 90 days may not be so bad -- I won't be able to start work on my project for a couple of months anyway, so an extra month may only be slightly excruciating. Six months though.. that one will be a lot harder to do. I'd have to REALLY get side tracked before I could wait that long or absolutely KNOW that it's worth the wait. I'm just no that patient anymore. In any case, thanks for the heads up. JCD |
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