What's all this "Q" stuff??
Jul 5, 2006 8:34:44 GMT -7
Post by ThomasW on Jul 5, 2006 8:34:44 GMT -7
People always seem to be confused regarding "Q", particularily when we're talking about IB subs. First, don't worry about trying to understand what all the various 'Q' numbers are or mean. For now consider them reference numbers we'll use for comparison.
Qts is the 'Q' of the raw loudspeaker. Qtc is the 'Q' of the 'system' (system meaning the operational subwoofer)
People design box subs for various Qtc. One of the more popular is 0.707. This is known as 'maximally flat' and is a popular 'Q' for 'HT' subs. A Qtc of 0.50 is called 'critically damped' and is frequently call a 'musical' sub.
What many 'box' sub designers fail to take into consideration, is that room gain will change the characteristic of these 'Q's. So starting off with a 0.707 sounds good in theory. But when placed in the room, the sub may tend to sound a bit bloated in the midbass given the boost from room gain.
So if we start of with a 'critically damped' Qtc 0.5 and add room gain we obtain a 'better' in-room response.
People get confused regarding the usual recommended "Q" for OB/IB sub drivers compared to what I recommend. So here's the beef....
The standard thinking is that open baffle/dipole/IB drivers should have a Qts around 0.69. And companies make drivers targeting that specific Qts. My thinking is that for IB subs and for box subs, this is too high a 'Q', unless one want's the added 'boom' when room gain is factored into the picture.
With a 10X Vas or larger IB sub, the drivers Qts = the Qtc, since the influences of the box are mimimal. So I recommend starting off with drivers having a Qts as close to 0.5 as possible.
One can change the Qtc. One method is RDO, where an L-pad is placed on one VC of a DVC driver. With that in place one can dial-in the 'Q' one desires, note it will always be higher than the Qts of the driver
What people tend to forget or don't know, is that using narrow band EQ filters raises the 'Q' of the sytem.
This is why I think it's better to start with a lower 'Q' driver. It's very to easy to raise the 'Q', but it's physically impossible to lower it.
Finally, people ask about 'music' only subs vs HT subs (more confusion generated mostly by marketing). I don't think this differentation should exist. A good sub is a good sub. It's no problem to take a 'music' sub (typically low Qtc), dial in a slightly different EQ curve and have a great sub for HT use....
This is of course my particular opinion, so the usual disclaimers apply YMMV....
Here's a nifty little online calculator for raising the 'Q' of a driver..
www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp#newqts
Qts is the 'Q' of the raw loudspeaker. Qtc is the 'Q' of the 'system' (system meaning the operational subwoofer)
People design box subs for various Qtc. One of the more popular is 0.707. This is known as 'maximally flat' and is a popular 'Q' for 'HT' subs. A Qtc of 0.50 is called 'critically damped' and is frequently call a 'musical' sub.
What many 'box' sub designers fail to take into consideration, is that room gain will change the characteristic of these 'Q's. So starting off with a 0.707 sounds good in theory. But when placed in the room, the sub may tend to sound a bit bloated in the midbass given the boost from room gain.
So if we start of with a 'critically damped' Qtc 0.5 and add room gain we obtain a 'better' in-room response.
People get confused regarding the usual recommended "Q" for OB/IB sub drivers compared to what I recommend. So here's the beef....
The standard thinking is that open baffle/dipole/IB drivers should have a Qts around 0.69. And companies make drivers targeting that specific Qts. My thinking is that for IB subs and for box subs, this is too high a 'Q', unless one want's the added 'boom' when room gain is factored into the picture.
With a 10X Vas or larger IB sub, the drivers Qts = the Qtc, since the influences of the box are mimimal. So I recommend starting off with drivers having a Qts as close to 0.5 as possible.
One can change the Qtc. One method is RDO, where an L-pad is placed on one VC of a DVC driver. With that in place one can dial-in the 'Q' one desires, note it will always be higher than the Qts of the driver
What people tend to forget or don't know, is that using narrow band EQ filters raises the 'Q' of the sytem.
This is why I think it's better to start with a lower 'Q' driver. It's very to easy to raise the 'Q', but it's physically impossible to lower it.
Finally, people ask about 'music' only subs vs HT subs (more confusion generated mostly by marketing). I don't think this differentation should exist. A good sub is a good sub. It's no problem to take a 'music' sub (typically low Qtc), dial in a slightly different EQ curve and have a great sub for HT use....
This is of course my particular opinion, so the usual disclaimers apply YMMV....
Here's a nifty little online calculator for raising the 'Q' of a driver..
www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp#newqts