Inexpensive "Auto On" solution for sub amps.

[severianb]

I am planning on putting my pro amp down in the cellar near my IB manifold so I don't have to hear the fans. I want it to turn on automatically when I turn on my reciever.

Some helpful people at AVS forums pointed me to this device: www.bitsltd.net/SmartStrip/faqlcg3.htm



The way it works: You plug your receiver into the blue outlet, and your amp into one of the white outlets. When you turn on your receiver, this "smart" strip senses the power draw and turns on the other outlets... which powers up your amp. Pretty simple and slick, I think. Avoids having to mess around with 12v triggers, X10 boxes or expensive pro-audio relays.

Figured it might help someone else out. I know I was very worried about having to go through the effort of turning on more than one switch to listen to my system. The horror.

In fact, I was so worried, I think this should go onto the steals and deals page!

[jman]

That's a great idea. Turning on my 3 amps is such a nuisance and they don't have triggers, nor does my receiver.

[mazeroth]

Are you going to run some sort of extension cable down to your pro amp so that it can utilize the "auto on"? I would grab one of these in a heartbeat, but the basement IB I'm working on now (almost done!) has the IB about 15ft from my electronics. I was going to put a Crown XLS402 amp in the room the IB is in (half in, I guess) and was thinking about an X10 piece to turn it on. In my situation there's no way possible for me to run any sort of extention cable to the Crown, nor would I really want to.

Just curious to see how you're going to do it ;D

[peted]

I plan on using something like this. You could turn on both outlets at once, with the click of one button.

www.crosse-technology.com/lacrrs-204-cs.html

I also don't want to run a power cord from my listening room to where my pro amp will be (utility room). With this, the problem should be solved.

[ThomasW]

I have a couple of the LaCross devices. They work fine but have one BIG flaw. Every time the power goes out they must be reprogrammed. So don't place the receptacles in a remote location, because there's a 'learn' button on them that must be pushed before the unit to accept the on/off code after a power outage.

[peted]

Thanks Thomas. That is good to know.

For me, mine will be easily accessible, so it won't be a problem.

[carl]

I have my amp in another room also. I took the low tech approach. I thought that if my sub amp and receiver powered up at the same time I'd get the dreaded "pop". It takes my receiver 3-4 secs to "click" on after it's powered up. I simply put a wall switch in my living room to turn the sub amp on. It's the kind that has a small red light on it when it's on so that I wont forget to turn it off when I'm done with it. Works great.

[severianb]

mazeroth said:

Are you going to run some sort of extension cable down to your pro amp so that it can utilize the "auto on"? I would grab one of these in a heartbeat, but the basement IB I'm working on now (almost done!) has the IB about 15ft from my electronics. I was going to put a Crown XLS402 amp in the room the IB is in (half in, I guess) and was thinking about an X10 piece to turn it on. In my situation there's no way possible for me to run any sort of extention cable to the Crown, nor would I really want to.

Just curious to see how you're going to do it ;D

How are your signal cables getting from your receiver down to the amp? Mine will be going through the floor/wall. Just more wires to be run. It'll be a pain, but there won't be any exposed wires for children/pets to pull down or chew on. My speakers will also be wall mounted. Can't wait to set it all up!

Of course if you want to get serious, and you have more than 15amps worth of stuff to hook up, you need to go with with pro-audio stuff.

First, hook one of these up to your amp: www.planetdj.com/expanded_detail.tpl/SKU/PS-REL
Then, daisy chain as many of these as you need for power: www.planetdj.com/expanded_detail.tpl/SKU/MP-15
This will end up with the same result as the Smartstrip. You will turn on your reciever, and everything else will turn on. You could use smartstrips in *addition* to this for even more flexibility.
This setup will cost around $140 to start, but it's pro-quality, and you can set it up to delay the equipment startup for heavy loads. If you want to do it right, use this stuff. The rest of the stuff we've talked about in this thread is kinda whimpy in comparison. For my current situation, this is overkill, but I know some of you have some awesome setups, so I thought I'd put it out there.

[ThomasW]

The Furman devices work well. I have a couple of their rack mounted units, they remotely sequence up to 3 pieces of gear.

[formica]

carl said:

I took the low tech approach... I simply put a wall switch in my living room to turn the sub amp on. It's the kind that has a small red light on it when it's on so that I wont forget to turn it off when I'm done with it. Works great.

That's what I was getting ready to do... any reason that so few people are doing this?

[peted]

I have considered the light switch as well.

I am just not sure if I would rather flip a switch on the wall, press a separate remote button, or have the amp get powered automatically by the receiver.

I am leaning away from the last option because I don't want the babysitter blasting the kids across the family room with the IB when I am not around (by mistake).

[scottatl]

This is on clearance all over the place. Surf the net for coupons, I got it for $95 by opening a credit card, but plenty of $5 coupons out there as well w/o opening a CC so it will still be a great deal at $115 After Rebate.


tinyurl.com/ae6gd

Feature:
Plug the Remote AC Control Cord’s 2-prong male end into a switched AC power outlet on a receiver
or preamplifier. When you turn on your receiver or preamplifier the PowerCenter’s switched outlets will
be turned on immediately. However, the PowerCenter’s timed outlets will be turned on after a delay of
approximately 6 seconds.



Edit by moderator........

This forums software doesn't truncate (shorten) long URL's. So please, if you need to post a URL that's 15 miles long, go to www.tinyurl.com and get them to resize it. That way we aren't thrown into widescreen mode just from a URL.

[carl]

peted said:

I have considered the light switch as well.

I am just not sure if I would rather flip a switch on the wall, press a separate remote button, or have the amp get powered automatically by the receiver.

I am leaning away from the last option because I don't want the babysitter blasting the kids across the family room with the IB when I am not around (by mistake).

If you're talking about plugging the IB amp into the switched outlet on the back of the receiver, that's not a good idea.

[garyk]

If you have a trigger on your receiver, then you could use a 120 volt relay like this one. I am using 2 of them and they take the load off of the receiver.
www.alliedelec.com/search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=814-3080&source=froogle&detail=8143080

[qwezxc12]

I'm using the same principle, except the relay I'm using is optically coupled to completely isolate the input trigger and output current. With the right heat sink it can handle up to 25A.

The output side passes to a heavy duty Leviton Powerstrip snagged from an test equipment rack at work. It's on a dedicated 20A circuit and powers two Harmon Kardon PA4000 amps (surround) and a Behringer EP1500 (IB). I'm switching it from a monitor outlet on my HTPC, but I think I may try one of the "Smartstrips" to energize the relay and my other components directly.

Info from Grainger.com or catalog # 396, pages 398-399

RELAY,SOLID STATE
Brand DAYTON
Mfr. Model # 5Z952

Solid State Relay
Input AC, Input Voltage 90-280 VAC
Output AC, Output Voltage 40-280 VAC
Output Current with Heat Sink 0.1 - 25 Amps
Grainger Item # 5Z952
Price (ea.) $28.95

Heat Sink .1-25A
Grainger Item # 6C912
Price (ea.) $13.98



For those with DC remote/trigger systems (or HTPCs - you can steal some juice from the ATX power supply) Dayton makes 3-32 VDC input / AC output models, as well.

[bri1270]

I'm using the same principle, except the relay I'm using is optically coupled to completely isolate the input trigger and output current.

Does that mean that a 12V trigger can induce noise into a system? Say for example you use a 12V trigger from the receiver to a Panamx 4400 which has switched outlets that are controlled by the 12V trigger?

[ThomasW]

Some people like these

tinyurl.com/dd427

[qwezxc12]

bri1270 said:

Does that mean that a 12V trigger can induce noise into a system? Say for example you use a 12V trigger from the receiver to a Panamx 4400 which has switched outlets that are controlled by the 12V trigger?

I really don't know...Probably not, but not knowing the particular characteristics of a given relay, especially one designed to handle higher amperages, I felt better using one where the trigger and secondary aren't coupled. Transients on either circuit will also be isolated electrically. I figured that to be a positive, too.

[philbiker]

I am using a Russound ACT-1, it can work either using the 12v power trigger from your receiver, or a 12v wall wart plugged into a switched 12v outlet on the receiver. Works great.